Comprehensive Alarm Installation Guide

This guide serves as the definitive manual for DEFENDR SECURITY technicians. It covers the installation standards for Hardwired, Wireless, and Hybrid security systems. Adhering to these standards ensures system reliability, reduces false alarms, and maintains our reputation for quality.

SAFETY FIRST: Always disconnect AC power and battery before working on any alarm panel wiring. Use insulated tools and verify circuits are dead before touching live wires.

Essential Tools

Multi-bit Screwdriver (Phillips #1/#2, Flathead)
Wire Strippers/Cutters (18-22 AWG)
Digital Multimeter (DMM) - Essential for troubleshooting
Drill & Bit Set (Wood, Masonry, Spade bits)
Fish Tape / Glow Rods (for fishing wires)
Level (Torpedo level for mounting keypads/panels)
Ladder (Fiberglass preferred for electrical safety)

Equipment & Default Codes

Select your equipment brand below to view default codes and specific installation notes.

Select Brand:

Select a brand above to see details.

Hardwired Systems (Vista, DSC, Concord)

Hardwired systems rely on physical copper connections between sensors and the main control panel. They are the industry standard for reliability but require labor-intensive installation.

Wiring Basics & Resistors (EOLR)

Understanding End-of-Line Resistors (EOLR) is critical. Resistors supervise the wire for cuts or shorts.

NORMAL STATE (Closed Loop): [Zone Terminal] ---- [Wire] ---- [Sensor NC] ---- [Resistor] ---- [Wire] ---- [COM Terminal] * Panel sees Resistance (e.g., 2kΩ or 5.6kΩ) = SECURE ALARM STATE (Open Circuit): * Sensor Opens -> Infinite Resistance -> ALARM TROUBLE/TAMPER (Short Circuit): * Wire Shorted -> 0Ω Resistance -> TROUBLE (if programmed)

Series Circuit: Used for NC (Normally Closed) contacts (Doors, Windows, Motions). Resistor goes in SERIES at the device.
Parallel Circuit: Used for NO (Normally Open) contacts (Smoke Detectors). Resistor goes in PARALLEL across the last device.

Pro Tip: Never place the resistor inside the control panel ("can"). This defeats the purpose of supervision. If the wire is cut between the panel and the sensor, the panel won't know if the resistor is at the panel. Always install resistors at the device (sensor) end.

Power & Battery

Transformer: Do not plug into a switched outlet (controlled by a light switch). Secure the transformer to the outlet using the center screw.
Battery: Connect Red to Red (+), Black to Black (-). The battery is for backup only; the system runs on AC.
Aux Power: Calculate the total current draw of all powered devices (Keypads, Motions, Glassbreaks). Do not exceed the panel's Aux Power rating (usually 600mA - 1A).

Wireless Systems (AJAX, Qolsys, 2GIG)

Wireless systems use RF (Radio Frequency) to communicate. They are faster to install but require careful placement to ensure signal integrity.

Hub / Panel Placement

Central Location: Place the Hub/Panel centrally to maximize range to all sensors.
Avoid Interference: Do not mount near large metal objects (ductwork, breaker boxes), mirrors, or other electronics (routers, microwaves).
Hidden vs. Visible: All-in-one panels (Qolsys/2GIG) must be accessible for the user. Headless hubs (AJAX) should be hidden in a secure closet with power and Ethernet access.

Sensor Enrollment

Most modern systems use "Auto-Learn" modes:

Put the Panel/Hub into Enrollment Mode.
Trip the sensor (open the door or tamper the device).
Confirm the Serial Number / DL ID on the screen.
Label Correctly: Name the zone clearly (e.g., "Front Door", "Living Room Motion") for the Central Station.

Sensor Installation Best Practices

Proper sensor placement is the difference between a secure home and a false alarm nightmare.

Door / Window Contacts

Magnet Placement: Install the magnet on the moving part (door/window) and the sensor on the frame.
Gap Distance: Keep the gap typically under 0.5 inches (check manufacturer specs). Wide gaps cause false alarms.
Orientation: Ensure the alignment marks on the sensor and magnet line up.
Steel Doors: Use spacers or wide-gap magnets for steel doors to prevent magnetic interference.

Motion Detectors (PIR)

Height: Mount at 7-7.5 feet high. Too high = dead zones; too low = pet false alarms.
Corner Mounting: Corners provide the best coverage (90-degree view).
Avoid Heat Sources: Do not aim at fireplaces, radiators, or HVAC vents. Rapid heat changes trigger PIRs.
Avoid Windows: Do not aim directly at windows where sunlight or car headlights can trigger them.
Pet Immunity: Verify the pet weight limit. For large dogs (>80lbs), consider glassbreaks instead of motions.

Glassbreak Detectors

Line of Sight: The detector must have a clear line of sight to the glass. Curtains can block the acoustic signature.
Range: typically 20-25 feet max.
Testing: You MUST use a Glassbreak Simulator (e.g., Honeywell FG-701) to test. Clapping is not a valid test.

Smoke & CO Detectors

Code Compliance: Life safety devices must strictly follow NFPA 72 and local codes.

Smoke: Install one on every level, inside every bedroom, and outside every sleeping area. Avoid kitchens (false alarms from cooking) and bathrooms (steam).
Carbon Monoxide (CO): Install outside each sleeping area. CO is roughly the same weight as air, but ceiling mounting is standard for combination detectors.
Heat Detectors: Use in garages, attics, or kitchens where smoke detectors would false alarm.

Testing & Handover

The job is not done until the system is fully tested and the customer is trained.

1. Local Walk Test

Put the system in "Walk Test" mode. Physically trip EVERY sensor. Ensure the keypad/app chimes and displays the correct zone name.

2. Communication Test

Trigger an alarm (Burglary) and a Panic. Call the Central Station to verify they received the signals with the correct Zone IDs and descriptions.

3. Customer Training

Teach the customer the "3 Basic Functions":

Arm Away: When leaving the house (Motions ON).
Arm Stay: When sleeping inside (Motions OFF).
Disarm: Turning it off.

Also demonstrate: Abort procedure (cancel accidental alarm), Bypass zones, and Panic buttons.